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Ficus Benjamina Bonsai Guide

Ficus benjamina

Common: Weeping fig, Weeping ficus, Benjamin fig

There are a lot of good reasons why Ficus benjamina are popular with bonsai growers around the world:

  • The weeping branches make for an elegant bonsai form.
  • The leaves are reasonably sized and can be reduced more over time.
  • They respond to pruning with ample back budding.
  • The trunks and branches of multiple trees can be fused to create exciting shapes.
  • They grow well indoors.

Because of these reasons, Ficus benjamina has become one of the most popular species for bonsai - especially indoors. Their strong growth and robust nature make them an excellent choice for new growers, and their stunning appearance has earned them a place with experienced growers.

Ficus benjamina bonsai with a large trunk.

The Ficus benjamina tree has become known by several names, including 'weeping fig,' 'Benjamin fig,' and 'weeping ficus.' They come in a regular form with green leaves and in a variegated form with white edged leaves.

Ficus benjamina as a tree

If you want to create the best environment possible for your bonsai, it's essential to understand the natural environments where the tree thrives.

Very large Ficus benjamina tree.

Ficus benjamina trees are native to tropical Asia (official tree of Bangkok), Australia, and the southern pacific Islands. They have since been introduced as an ornamental species and taken hold in many tropical other regions, including the west indies and southern areas of the United States. The Ficus benjamina tree thrives in generally humid, sunny, and frost-free environments, where temperatures remain well above freezing.

Ficus benjamina trees are members of the Moraceae family, with edible Fig, Banyan, jackfruit, breadfruit, and other ficus trees. These trees grow to around 90ft (~30M). It is also a versatile and robust tree that can survive in constrained spaces like urban areas or the cracks in rock faces and will moderate its size to the resources and space available. Ficus benjamina trees can grow aerial roots when the humidity and conditions are proper.

Lighting

Ficus benjamina trees do best with ample light - they are from the warmest and sunniest spots on earth! Place your Ficus benjamina bonsais in the brightest place you can find; a south-facing window will work great. While the ficus can survive in lower light conditions, the growth will be long and spindly. You can supplement with artificial grow lights if needed. During warm months, or in tropical areas, your Ficus benjamina bonsai would benefit from outside time. Start by placing it in the shade and then gradually moving it into sunnier locations over a week to prevent sunburn.

Temperature & Humidity

Ficus benjamina trees are tropical and cannot tolerate frost or temperatures near freezing. While they can survive more extreme conditions, to avoid damage, keep them above 50F (10C) and below 85F (29.5C).

Tropical trees can actively grow year-round. However, it is best to give them a dormancy period if possible. To induce dormancy, move them into a cool area, between 55F (12.7C) and 60F(15.5) for 6 to 8 weeks in the wintertime. Giving them a cool-down period will allow your bonsai to recharge and get ready for strong growth in the spring.

Ficus benjamina bonsai forest.

Jungle environments are very humid, and that is how your bonsai will like it; around 60%-70% relative humidity is perfect. Human homes typically stay in the correct temperature ranges for Ficus benjamina, but they are often far drier than the ficus would prefer at 30-50% relative humidity. While they can survive low humidity, they may lose leaves and grow sluggishly. Raise the humidity by misting the plants daily or using a humidity tray.

Soil

While Ficus benjamina trees in the wild are so robust that they can grow in poor soil, you will want to be more careful with your bonsai version since it grows in a very constrained space. A safe bet is to use commercial bonsai soil since it is free-flowing and excels at developing roots in constrained areas.

With that said, you can easily mix your own if you know what you are doing. The essential aspects of good soil are:

Loose - Compacted soil won't let the roots breath Free Flowing - Waterlogged soil will rot the roots

Ficus benjamina plants thrive in soil with ample volcanic materials like pumice, lava rock, vermiculite, and perlite because these inorganic materials are lightweight, free-draining, and provide excellent aeration. Ficus benjamina bonsais, especially young ones in training and pre-bonsai states, also benefit from organic matter mixed in the soil. We recommend a mix of 60% inorganic material (pumice, lava, vermiculite, sand, etc.) and 40% organic materials (pine/fir bark, coco coir, peat moss, composted forest products, etc.).

Ficus benjamina bonsais prefer slightly acidic soil pH, between 6 and 7. Adding peat moss or pine bark will lower pH (more acidic), and adding lime will raise the pH (more alkaline). Use caution when adjusting pH, and be sure to test your soil since you can easily create an environment too alkaline or too acidic for the plant to survive.

Water

Almost all bonsai can follow the same rule of thumb for watering: let the soil almost dry out between waterings but do not let it completely dry out. For summertime, you may need to water every day, depending on the size of the container, or even multiple times a day. While the weather is cool or the plant is dormant, watering will be less frequent.

Make sure to water entirely every time you water until it runs from the bottom of the pot. Water running through will help ensure that all of the soil gets wet so the roots will expand to the entire potting area, and the runoff will help remove excess salts left by chemical fertilizers.

Fertilizer

Ficus benjamina bonsai grow best when there are ample nutrients available. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer once a week during peak growing season and once a month during the cooler seasons. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions; overfertilizing can burn the tips of the leaves, and under-fertilizing can cause sluggish growth and can eventually kill your bonsai.

Clump style Ficus benjamina bonsai.

Repotting

Ficus benjamina trees are aggressive root growers, and their roots will quickly fill up a pot. You should check your pot at least once a year and repot if they are root-bound. They respond well to root pruning, and you can easily create a radial root base.

Pruning & Wiring

Ficus benjamina bonsai do well with pruning and wiring, allowing you to form them into unconventional shapes. For best results, prune and wire during the active growing period. You can completely defoliate the tree every other spring to get a reduced leaf size.

When pruned, they respond with ample back buds and will produce new shoots after a hard cutback or even a full trunk chop. When cut or injured, they bleed a white latex-based sticky sap heavily. While it irritates humans and pets, it helps the tree heal quickly and lowers the risk of infection. Always sanitize your tools before pruning any bonsai to reduce the risk of infection or cross-contamination.

The primary concern with wiring a Ficus benjamina bonsai is that they grow moderately fast that the wire can cut into the bark. Remember to check the wiring frequently and remove or replace it when you see it cutting into the bark. Don't be too concerned if you get some scarring; it will heal over time. You can also train your Ficus benjamina bonsai using the clip-and-grow approach by constantly cutting and shaping new growth.

Propagating

One of the best parts of Ficus benjamina bonsai is how easy their cuttings root. You will need to remove most of the leaves since the cutting will not have a root system to support the water required for photosynthesis until it develops roots. Place the cuttings into water or moist soil in a humid environment and mist them while growing roots. Cuttings root faster and more reliably in warm weather, but a heating pad can help in the cold months. Keep them in low light until they grow enough of a root system to support photosynthesis, which takes between 10 days and three weeks.

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