Walter Plunkett 1902-1982
Walter Plunkett was the premiere costume designer for movies in the 1930's. He was born in 1902 in Oakland, California. Originally, he studied law at the University of California, Berkeley. The new path he chose was that of an actor and one of the "greatest costume designers in movie history. (Plunkett)" While still in college he joined a few theatre groups and fell in love with the art. He loved the stage so much, in fact, that his father bought him a ticket to New York. He had small roles in two Broadway shows before deciding to return to California to try his luck in Hollywood (LaVine). In 1926 Plunkett became an assistant at RKO studios. Nine years later he joined Metro-Goldwyn-Meyer. He remained with the company until he retired (Plunkett).
His career as a costume designer began with the film Cimarron where he dressed Irene Dunn. This one movie helped popularize the trend of a broad-shouldered silhouette. Many of his movies were period pieces, requiring him to spend hour doing research and pouring over publications from that period. Films such as Little Women and Mary of Scotland allowed him to showcase his talent with period costumes. Little did he know, though, that simple costumes would spawn new trends. Little Women made ginghams and calicos popular. Mary of Scotland starring Katherine Hepburn started the trend of red satin slippers and velvet berets to suede gloves and gold medallions (Plunkett).
Plunkett is probably most famous for his work on Gone With the WInd. This film was widely recognized for the amazing costumes. He was responsible for Vivien Leigh's wardrobe. "Scarlett's green and white "barbecue dress" was the most copied, most coveted dress in movie history." In fact, it was reproduced in many different styles and fabrics. Plunkett's influence was even felt in the world of children's clothes. After costuming Haley Mills in Pollyanna drop-waisted dresses and stockings became popular. It is interesting that movies were able to spawn so many trends in fashion (Plunkett).
His career as a costume designer began with the film Cimarron where he dressed Irene Dunn. This one movie helped popularize the trend of a broad-shouldered silhouette. Many of his movies were period pieces, requiring him to spend hour doing research and pouring over publications from that period. Films such as Little Women and Mary of Scotland allowed him to showcase his talent with period costumes. Little did he know, though, that simple costumes would spawn new trends. Little Women made ginghams and calicos popular. Mary of Scotland starring Katherine Hepburn started the trend of red satin slippers and velvet berets to suede gloves and gold medallions (Plunkett).
Plunkett is probably most famous for his work on Gone With the WInd. This film was widely recognized for the amazing costumes. He was responsible for Vivien Leigh's wardrobe. "Scarlett's green and white "barbecue dress" was the most copied, most coveted dress in movie history." In fact, it was reproduced in many different styles and fabrics. Plunkett's influence was even felt in the world of children's clothes. After costuming Haley Mills in Pollyanna drop-waisted dresses and stockings became popular. It is interesting that movies were able to spawn so many trends in fashion (Plunkett).
Critical Analysis
Walter Plunkett was able to influence fashion during his entire career as a costume designer. He designed for about 250 movies. "His influence on fashions created by both New York and Paris designers is legendary. His dedication to authenticity and accuracy in his interpretations of historic costume kept audiences entranced and the fashion industry delighted when he created pieces that could be adapted for modern wardrobes" (Plunkett, Walter). Most notable is his work on Gone WIth the WInd. In fact, he painted more than 375 sketches. He even had about nine or ten artists working with him on the sketches. He was incredibly busy with MGM. At times he felt under appreciated by directors and producers. However, all of these feelings of doubt quickly faded when one of the producers mentioned him in his acceptance speech at the Academy Awards in 1939. The producer, David Selznick, said "It's too bad there isn't an Academy Award for costume designing too, because Walter Plunkett would have received it" (Landis).
Plunkett's career can be landmarked by two things: his relationship with Katherine Hepburn and his work on Gone With the WInd. He first worked with Ms. Hepburn when she was Jo in Little Women. That was the start of their professional relationship. Some of his most famous work was for the films in which she starred. He actually left RKO studios at one point but was lured back at Katherine's request. The green curtain dress that was fashioned for Vivien Leigh in Gone WIth the WInd surprisingly wasn't Plunkett's favorite piece. He stated that he didn't feel it was his best work. We, today know that it was "probably the most famous costume in the history of motion pictures" (LaVine). This film and the costumes in it also showcased just how truly talented Plunkett was. It also perfectly reflected the zeitgeist of the time of the Great Depression. "It became an emblem of survival for the generation that lived through the Great Depression" (McConathy).
The zeitgeist of the 1930's was reflected in the movies of the time. It was during the Great Depression and people were, simply put, sad. They wanted to watch something happy and movies offered them an escape. Plunkett's work on movies was another way to give people something to feel joyful about. It was also a source of joy for himself. Even though he had quarrels and doubted the appreciation from his bosses, he did occassionally receive the accolades that he deserved. In the 1950's he received an Academy Award for An American in Paris and nominations for movies such as Magnificent Yankee, King Lady, and Some Came Running (Plunkett, Walter).
Films were also a source of joy for Plunkett himself. He was constantly arguing with directors and others collaborating on the designs of costumes. Whether it was arguing about how modern the garments should look to how many black shawls should be worn in the film, Plunkett was always working to get his point of view across. He even went behind the producer's instructions and showed sketches to some of the stars. His design aesthetic changed based on the time period of the movie he was working on. However, as the years progressed, he found himself designing garments similar to what he did when he first began. "Many of my costumes are duplicates of those I designed in seriousness for early silent film star Lilyan Tashman" (Landis).
Plunkett's career can be landmarked by two things: his relationship with Katherine Hepburn and his work on Gone With the WInd. He first worked with Ms. Hepburn when she was Jo in Little Women. That was the start of their professional relationship. Some of his most famous work was for the films in which she starred. He actually left RKO studios at one point but was lured back at Katherine's request. The green curtain dress that was fashioned for Vivien Leigh in Gone WIth the WInd surprisingly wasn't Plunkett's favorite piece. He stated that he didn't feel it was his best work. We, today know that it was "probably the most famous costume in the history of motion pictures" (LaVine). This film and the costumes in it also showcased just how truly talented Plunkett was. It also perfectly reflected the zeitgeist of the time of the Great Depression. "It became an emblem of survival for the generation that lived through the Great Depression" (McConathy).
The zeitgeist of the 1930's was reflected in the movies of the time. It was during the Great Depression and people were, simply put, sad. They wanted to watch something happy and movies offered them an escape. Plunkett's work on movies was another way to give people something to feel joyful about. It was also a source of joy for himself. Even though he had quarrels and doubted the appreciation from his bosses, he did occassionally receive the accolades that he deserved. In the 1950's he received an Academy Award for An American in Paris and nominations for movies such as Magnificent Yankee, King Lady, and Some Came Running (Plunkett, Walter).
Films were also a source of joy for Plunkett himself. He was constantly arguing with directors and others collaborating on the designs of costumes. Whether it was arguing about how modern the garments should look to how many black shawls should be worn in the film, Plunkett was always working to get his point of view across. He even went behind the producer's instructions and showed sketches to some of the stars. His design aesthetic changed based on the time period of the movie he was working on. However, as the years progressed, he found himself designing garments similar to what he did when he first began. "Many of my costumes are duplicates of those I designed in seriousness for early silent film star Lilyan Tashman" (Landis).
Analysis of Future Trends
Walter Plunkett was one of the greatest costume designers of our time. He had the ability to design extravagant costumes such as those for Gone With the Wind and modern ones such as for "An American in Paris." It is truly remarkable that this man could live with the high pressures of Hollywood and still create beautiful garments. He also worked through war times as well as the Great Depression. He saw the ups and downs of the world and he used film to express the thoughts and feelings of people in that time.
"Walter Plunkett was one of the handful of Hollywood designers interested in the use of historical fabrics and ancient forms of dressmaking and ornamentation" (McConathy). He truly set the standard for costume design. With historical and period films today, costume designers are put under immense pressure to maintain the integrity of the garments and their respective times. Great care was put in to his research. "Walter Plunkett did extensive research for Gone With the Wind" (LaVine).
Today costume designers follow in Plunkett's footsteps. They look to the past for inspiration. Perhaps even pulling from his designs in earlier films. After his work in Little Women, Plunkett was in high demand. The same holds true today. The costume designers for films such as The Hunger Games or shows such as Mad Men receive a large amount of press for their work. He paved the way for costume designers. He received many Academy Award nominations, proving that his talents were noteworthy. I believe that cinema is an integral part of our society today. It makes us happy, it provides escape. Film would not be able to accomplish these things, however, without the ever important work of costume designers.
"Plunkett, Walter." In an Influential Fashion: An Encyclopedia of Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Fashion Designers and Retailers Who Transformed Dress. Ann T. Kellogg, et al. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2002. 242-243. Gale Virtual Reference Library. Web. 9 Dec. 2013.
Landis, Deborah Nadoolman. Hollywood Sketchbook: A Century of Costume Illustration. New York: Harper Design, 2012. Print.
LaVine, W. Robert., and Allen Florio. In a Glamorous Fashion: The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Costume Design. New York: Scribner, 1980. Print.
McConathy, Dale, and Diana Vreeland. Hollywood Costumes: Glamour! Glitter! Romance! New York: Abrams, 1976. Print.
"Walter Plunkett was one of the handful of Hollywood designers interested in the use of historical fabrics and ancient forms of dressmaking and ornamentation" (McConathy). He truly set the standard for costume design. With historical and period films today, costume designers are put under immense pressure to maintain the integrity of the garments and their respective times. Great care was put in to his research. "Walter Plunkett did extensive research for Gone With the Wind" (LaVine).
Today costume designers follow in Plunkett's footsteps. They look to the past for inspiration. Perhaps even pulling from his designs in earlier films. After his work in Little Women, Plunkett was in high demand. The same holds true today. The costume designers for films such as The Hunger Games or shows such as Mad Men receive a large amount of press for their work. He paved the way for costume designers. He received many Academy Award nominations, proving that his talents were noteworthy. I believe that cinema is an integral part of our society today. It makes us happy, it provides escape. Film would not be able to accomplish these things, however, without the ever important work of costume designers.
"Plunkett, Walter." In an Influential Fashion: An Encyclopedia of Nineteenth- and Twentieth-Century Fashion Designers and Retailers Who Transformed Dress. Ann T. Kellogg, et al. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2002. 242-243. Gale Virtual Reference Library. Web. 9 Dec. 2013.
Landis, Deborah Nadoolman. Hollywood Sketchbook: A Century of Costume Illustration. New York: Harper Design, 2012. Print.
LaVine, W. Robert., and Allen Florio. In a Glamorous Fashion: The Fabulous Years of Hollywood Costume Design. New York: Scribner, 1980. Print.
McConathy, Dale, and Diana Vreeland. Hollywood Costumes: Glamour! Glitter! Romance! New York: Abrams, 1976. Print.